Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Globe Pillow or Ball Crochet Along


Top Chart
Bottom Chart

I'm going to try something a little different with this post.  It's going to be a Crochet Along.  If you would like to do it with me email me at crochetparfaitpg@yahoo.com and I will send you the charts. Let me know which format you would like it in (Excel--editable, Adobe pdf--print it out and tape it together, or Png--picture)

I suggest you read the whole post before starting.

Materials
  • Worsted weight yarn, blue, green and white
  • H Hook
  • Polyfil stuffing
  • Tapestry needle
Abbreviations

ch(s)--chain(s)     sc(s)--single crochet(s)   st(s)--stitch(es)    YO--Yarn over

This is how to start the chart and change color.
I'm starting with the top chart.  
With an H hook and Blue yarn I chained 122 chs.  That is one more than the number of stitches for the chart which is 121.  You will be crocheting right to left if you are a right hander (left to right for lefties) so look at the bottom of the top chart on the right hand side.  You will start by inserting the hook in the second ch from the hook and doing 12 scs in Blue Yarn, start the next sc. (insert hook, YO, pull up a loop)

If you are crocheting right handed this first row will be on the wrong side of your piece so you will carry the yarn on this side, pull the Blue Yarn to this side. (If you are a lefty you will be on the right side so carry the yarn on the back of this row).

Loop the Green Yarn over the hook and pull it through the two loops.

Then do 3 scs, start the next sc and add the Blue Yarn the same way you added the Green yarn. Since there is only one Blue sc, you will just start the sc and then add the Green Yarn.





Keep following the chart in this manner.  It's a good idea to count the number of squares for each color change before you start it.  Always do one less full sc and then start the sc on the last st before the color change.

Carry the yarn on the wrong side about every 5 stitches when you aren't using it. 

You do this by catching the unused yarn under a stitch.








This is how to read the chart. (I'm only going to do this for the first 2 rows, if you need to write it out this will be your guide)

Right Handers
With Blue Yarn Ch 122. (start at the bottom right hand side of the top chart and start reading toward the left side of the chart )


Row 1: Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, do 12 scs, start next sc, add Green Yarn, do 3 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, start sc, add Green Yarn, do 5 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, start sc, add Green Yarn, start sc, add Blue Yarn, do 17 scs, start next sc add Green Yarn, do 11 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do 18 scs, start next sc add Green Yarn, do 12 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, sc to end of ch, ch 1. Turn (121 scs)



Now you are following the chart from left to right
Row 2: Sc in same st and in next 31 sts, start next sc add Green Yarn, do 10 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do 19 scs, start next sc add Green Yarn, do 11 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do 16 scs, start next sc, add Green Yarn, do 1 sc, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do 1 sc, start next scs, add Green Yarn, do 2 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, sc to end of row, ch 1. Turn (121 scs)

You will read Row 3 right to left and then Row 4 left to right and so on.


Left Handers
With Blue Yarn Ch 122. (start at the bottom left hand side of the top chart and start reading toward the right side of the chart )


Row 1: Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, do 31 scs, start next sc, add Green Yarn, do 12 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do 18 scs, start next sc, add Green Yarn,  do 11 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do  17 scs, start next sc, add Green Yarn, start sc, add Blue Yarn,  start sc, add Green Yarn, do 5 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, start sc, add Green Yarn, do 4 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, sc to end of ch, ch 1. Turn. (121 scs)



Now you are following the chart from right to left
Row 2: Sc in same st, sc in next 19 scs, start next sc, add Green Yarn, do 2 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do 1 sc, start next sc, add Green Yarn, do 1 sc, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do 16 scs, start next sc, add Green Yarn,  do 11 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, do 19 scs, start next sc, add Green Yarn, do 10 scs, start next sc, add Blue Yarn, sc to end of row, ch 1. Turn. (121 scs) 

You will read Row 3 left to right and then Row 4 right to left and so on.


Continue on up to row 12.  My next post will address how to do the rows after that. (I cut the picture into pieces so you can see it better.)










Happy Hooking!

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Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Janet's Yorkie


Janet just sent me this picture of the Yorkie she made.  I think she did a great job.  If you would like to make  a cute little doggie for yourself, check out my pattern HERE.

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Monday, June 10, 2013

Peacock Afghan Chart




I had a request awhile back for a peacock afghan chart, so here is my version.

Each square on the pattern counts as a single crochet.  It has 142 stitches across and 113 rows. The gauge of the pattern totally depends on the size yarn and hook you use.  I measured my gauge for worsted weight yarn and an I hook at 4 sts and 4 rows = 1".  With this gauge the afghan would measure 35 1/2" x 28 1/4" .  If you want to make it wider or longer, I'd add turquoise stitches on either side of the pattern for width or more rows to the top and bottom of the pattern to make it longer.  I don't knit, but I think you could use this for a knitted afghan as well.

If you are really talented (and somewhat ambidextrous) you can switch the hook to your left hand when you get to the end of the row and then crochet back the way you came like Carol Ventura does.

Here is another tutorial by Interweave that I think is easier.

If you are new to crochet charts check out my Skull iPad Case pattern, it has a tutorial on how to read a chart.

For other tips on following a crochet chart check out my Harley Davidson Afghan post.

I realize there's no way you could crochet this afghan from this tiny picture, so if you want the chart email me at crochetparfaitpg@yahoo.com.  Let me know what format you want it in.  (Excel--editable .xlsx, Adobe .pdf or picture .png,  I recommend the .xlsx or .png files because the pdf splits it up into several pages.)

Happy Hooking!

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Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Masculine Pillowgahn



Cynchet left a comment a while back on my  Shell Pattern Pillowghan post.

Hi, Pam!
Thanks so much for your WONDERFUL pattern. I'm making one for each of my Daughters-in-law. Can you give me some suggestions on how to create a more masculine cover for my sons?

To make the pillowghan pattern more masculine I started thinking about making a more geometric design for the pillow top.  I still like the look of having the background color of the lapghan peeking through the pillow top, so I wanted to have a geometric design with holes in it.  I found this stitch on Pinterest and thought it would look quite nice. I also decided to get rid of the edging because edgings tend to be more feminine.  I used greens and blue yarn because that's what I had on hand, but I think this pattern would look nice using grays and blacks or browns as well.  You could also do the pillow top in one solid color.  The pillow top measures 12" x 12".  For the afghan part of the pattern, use the Shell Pattern Pillowghan pattern.

Gauge
8 sts = 2", 3 rows = 2"

Materials

  • Worsted Weight yarn (1 skein for the pillow top)  
  • H hook

Abbreviations
ch(s)--chain(s)      dc(s)--double crochet(s)   sk--skip

Pillow Top

With Green Yarn Ch 52.  
Row 1:  Dc in 4th ch from hook (2st 3 chs count as first dc), *ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 6 chs, ch 2, dc in next 2 chs* 4 times, turn. (34 dcs)

Row 2:  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next dc, *ch 6, sk 2 chs and 4 dcs, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 2, dc in next 2 dcs* 3 times,ch 6, sk 2 chs and 4 dcs, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 2, dc in next dc and in top of turning ch, turn. (18 dcs)

Row 3:  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next dc, *ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 4 chs and in next 2 dcs*  3 times,  ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 4 chs, dc in next dc and in top of turning ch, turn (34 dcs)




Row 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dcs, dc in next 2 dcs, *ch 2, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 6, sk 2 chs and 4 dcs, dc in last 2 dcs* 3 times, ch 2, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 2, dc in next dc and in top of turning ch, turn. (20 dcs)

Row 5:  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next dc, dc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2 dcs, *ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 4 chs and next 2 dcs* 3 times, ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next dc and in top of turning ch, turn. (34 dcs)
Dc in next 2 chs

Row 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next dc, *ch 2, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 6, sk 2 chs and 4 dcs, dc in last 2 dcs* 3 times, ch 2, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 6, sk 2 chs and 4 dcs, dc in next dc and in turning ch, turn. (18 dcs)

Row 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next dc, ch 2,  sk 2 chs, dc in next 4 chs, dc in next 2 dcs, *ch 2, dc in next 2 dcs, ch 2, sk 2 chs, dc in next 4 dcs, dc in next 2 dcs*3 times, ch 2, dc in next dc, start dc in top of turning ch, attach blue yarn, turn. (34 dcs)



Repeat Rows 2 to 7, at the end of Row 7 change back to the green yarn.
Repeat Rows 2 to 7 and then repeat Row 2, fasten off, weave in ends.



Lapghan Pattern


Assembly is the same as for the shell pattern pillowghan, but since there is no edging, you don't have to turn anything under.  Just be sure to sew the pillow top down to the lapghan close to the edges of the pillow top so as much of the design shows as possible when you turn the top.





Happy Hooking!


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Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Making Your Own Crochet or Knitting Charts

For those of you who are interested in making your own crochet charts, you can either do it the way I do it with Excel, or you can use a new service I just found called Tricksy Knitter.

You can find the tutorial I wrote on how to make a chart in Excel here.

The advantage to using Excel is you can insert a picture of what you are designing next to the chart and even move the image around to hover over the chart to see if you have your proportions right.  Also, once you finish the chart, if you keep it on your computer and zoom in you can move the cursor row by row and mark where you left off on you afgan work.


The disadvantage to Excel is you have to set up everything yourself and if you aren't familiar with the program it can be a little tricky.

The Tricksy Knitter Color ChartMaker has the grid already set up.  



If you want to add more stitches or rows, just hold the cursor over the plus sign and double click.  To subtract rows hold the cursor over the minus sign and double click.  The directions for adding color to the grid are in the help section and are pretty easy to follow.  To change the colors on the palette, just click on one of the color boxes and then select a new color from the color spectrum box.  You can then save the chart onto the Tricksy Knitter site where others can use the chart as well.  You can also embed the newly made chart onto your own site as well.  

If you don't feel like you can do a whole chart from scratch you can select and already made chart and edit it.  There are already over 4500 charts on the shared charts section.

Chart making and doing tapestry crochet is a lot of fun, so try making a chart today!

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Thursday, May 30, 2013

Lace Spa Basket






This spa basket from La Maison Bleue has been circulating on Pinterest for awhile now, but I've never seen a pattern for it.  I think it's really lovely and it's actually not that hard to make.  Here is my rendition.

La Maison Bleue


Materials

  • 2 to 3 skeins Lily's Sugar N' Cream cotton worsted weight yarn, white
  • G hook
  • Tapestry Needle

Finished Size
Size 6" x 12" x 3"

Gauge 
13 sts = 4", 5 rows = 2 "



Abbreviations
ch(s)--chain(s)             hdc(s)--half double crochet(s)            FLO--front loop only




Bottom of Basket

Ch 41
Row 1: Hdc in back bump of  3rd ch from hook and each ch to end. (39 hdcs)
Row 2: ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in each st to end (39 hdcs)
Rows 3 to 16:  Repeat  Row 2.

Sides of Basket

Row 17: Ch 2, hdc in FLO of same st and in FLO of each hdc across (39 FLO hdcs) 
Crocheting in the FLO allows the ends to stand up.



Row 18 to 24: repeat Row 2. Fasten off.

Row 25: Attach yarn in front loop of the foundation chain.  Ch 2, hdc in FLO of next st, hdc in FLO of each st across. (39 FLO hdcs)



Row 26 to 32:  Repeat Row 2. Fasten off.

Row 33: Attach yarn in the FL of the post on the right side of the basket next to the 1st FLO hdc (22 hdcs)





Row 34 to 40:  Repeat Row 2. Fasten off.

Row 41:  Attach yarn in the FLO of the post on the right side of the basket next to the FLO hdc opposite of the first short side,  (22 hdcs)


Rows 42 to 48: Repeat row 2. Fasten off.

Sew up the sides of the basket.  Weave in ends.




Insert
Make 2.

Row 1: Ch 13, hdc in back bum of 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (11 hdcs)
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st and in each st across. (11 hdcs)
Rows 3 to 11: Repeat row 2.

Row 12: Ch 2, hdc in FLO of same st and FLO of each st to the end (11 FLO hdcs)

Row 13 to 18: Repeat row 2. Fasten off.

Row 19:  Attach yarn in BL of Row 12. Ch 2, hdc in BLO of same st, hdc in BLO of each st to end (11 BLO hdcs)

Row 20 to 25: Repeat Row 2, fasten off.

This is what one insert look like


Middle

Row 1: Ch 13, hdc in back bum of 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (11 hdcs)
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st and in each st across. (11 hdcs)
Rows 3 to 6: Repeat row 2.

Sew middle onto one insert in the middle between the FLO and BLO rows.


Sew the second insert on the the middle piece, in between the FLO and BLO rows.


Use contrasting yarn to mark where you are going to sew down the insert.



Sew the insert onto the sides of the basket, then remove the contrasting thread and sew the insert down to the bottom of the basket.







Basket Edging

Rnd 1: Attach yarn in one corner of the basket.  *Ch 4, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st* repeat until you have gone all the way around the edge of the basket.



Rnd 2:  Ch 1, sl st into 1st ch-4 sp, *ch 3, sl st in next ch-4 sp* all the way around, ch 3 and sl st in beginning ch-4 sp.

Rnd 3:  Ch 3, dc 5 times in 1st ch-3 sp, sl st in next ch-3 sp, *dc 6 times in next ch-3 sp, sl st in next ch-3 sp* 20 times, sl st in top of beginning ch 3.  Fasten off, weave in ends.  




If you would like to stiffen the basket, here are several ways you can do it.

Happy Hooking!

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